Papers and history

Japanese chassis number check: what the number can tell you, and what it can't

Sources checked 2 October 2026

If you're looking at a car in Japan and searching for a "VIN check", you've probably found that the car doesn't seem to have a VIN. Most cars sold new in Japan are identified by a chassis number instead. It's the key to the car's paperwork and to any paid history report. But it's a number on paper. It tells you which car you're looking at and some of what has been recorded about it. It doesn't tell you what the car is like today.

What a Japanese chassis number is

A 17-character VIN, the format used in Europe and North America, is built to a set pattern: maker, model details, a check digit and a serial. A Japanese chassis number is shorter and simpler. It's usually the model code followed by a serial number, joined by a hyphen.

The Japanese transport ministry's own sample certificate shows a Nissan with the code CBA-R35, the code used for the R35 GT-R, and a chassis number that begins with R35. The letters before the hyphen (CBA here) usually relate to the emissions rules the car was approved under. The part that matters for identity is the model part, and the chassis number should start with it.

You'll find the number in two places:

What the number and its papers can tell you

Since January 2023 (kei cars since January 2024), Japan's shaken certificate has been a smaller sheet with an IC tag. According to the transport ministry, the printed face of the certificate shows, among other things:

The expiry date and the owner's name and address are no longer printed. They're stored only on the IC tag. The user's name and the registration number are still printed.

The fuller record behind the certificate also holds odometer readings taken at inspection. On the ministry's sample record, there's a current reading and a previous reading, each with a date. The national inspection data also keeps the highest reading ever recorded, for cars where the reading has gone down at some point, for example after a meter was replaced. These are useful when you compare them with the odometer photo in the listing.

The chassis number is also what paid history reports work from. What a report can return depends on where its data comes from. Auction records, for example, only exist if the car went through an auction.

So, with the chassis number and the papers, you can usually confirm:

What the chassis number can't tell you

Papers record events. They don't record condition. Nothing in a chassis number check tells you:

Our own car is a good example. It's the grey Toyota Prius α in the photos on this site. Whatever its papers say, they say nothing about the small dent in the roof, which only shows when you look along the panel in the right light, and nothing about what the strut tops look like. Both are in our sample report, because someone stood next to the car and looked.

Engine bay of a grey Toyota Prius α with the bonnet open, seen from the front
Our own car with the bonnet (hood) open. The papers tell you which car this is, not what any of this looks like today.

A chassis number check tells you which car it is. It can't tell you what the car is like today.

If you've checked the papers and the history and you still want to know what the car is really like, send us the listing. We'll tell you what we can see and what we can't.

Send us the listing link

How to check it yourself

You can do most of this by email before you pay anyone.

  1. Ask for a photo of the stamped chassis number on the car, close enough to read every character. Ask for the model plate too.
  2. Ask for a photo of the shaken certificate, or the export certificate if the car has already been deregistered. Ask the seller to cover the user's name and the registration number. You don't need them.
  3. Compare the numbers character by character: the stamping, the certificate and the listing. Check that the chassis number starts with the part of the certificate's model code after the hyphen (R35 in the example above).
  4. Ask for the inspection record with the odometer readings. While the car is still registered in Japan, the owner or dealer can read it from the certificate's IC tag with the transport ministry's free app and save it as a PDF. Compare the readings and dates with the odometer photo in the listing.
  5. If you buy a paid history report, ask the provider what its sources are and what period they cover. A report can only tell you what its sources recorded.
  6. Ask for photos of what the papers can't cover: underneath from both sides, the strut tops in the engine bay, and the rear arches.
  7. If you post the chassis number online to ask for help, hide the last few digits. The model part is enough for people to tell you what the car is.

If the seller won't send the stamping or the certificate, that's worth knowing in itself.

The chassis number tells you which car it is. The repair history line on a listing answers a different question, covered in repair history and flood cars. For where the papers fit into buying and shipping as a whole, see how to import a car from Japan.

Sources

If you'd rather not chase the seller yourself, we can ask the dealer for the stamping, the papers and the extra photos in Japanese with a Remote Check, or go and see the car with an On-Site Vehicle Viewing. Send us the link and tell us what you're unsure about.

Send us the listing link